Dmg Gameboy Power Requirements

  1. 1 Pair Conductive Rubber Button Pads for Original Nintendo Game Boy DMG-01 by Atomic Market. By Atomic Market. 5.0 out of 5 stars 1. Get it as soon as Wed, Oct 30. FREE Shipping on orders over $25 shipped by Amazon. Only 1 left in stock - order soon. More Buying Choices $6.99 (2 new offers).
  2. Checkpoint At this point you might be excited and just want to start modding - but wait! As I said, there are many way of doing this. Here's the first choice you'll have to make: You EITHER keep the DMG's lcd-pcb OR you don't and find yourself fiddling around with power-switches, volume-wheels and other components that have to be mounted within the DMG's housing.
  3. The Game Boy shell can be removed to be cleaned with warm water and dish soap. If the damage is beyond something you can fix yourself, it might be necessary to replace the shell completely. Head over to our Game Boy shell replacement guide to get started!
  4. Nintendo Game Boy mods and other customization products for vintage hand-held electronics. Find modifications for the Game Boy DMG, Game Boy Color, Game Boy Pocket, Game Boy Advance and SEGA Game Gear. Top modifications include Game Boy Backlight, Game Boy Color Backlight, Game Boy Advance Backlight, AGS-101 and IPS LCDs. Game Boy Bivert/hex mods.

The DMG doesn't tell you directly everything you need to know about its power requirements. On the back of the DMG, the text states that the DMG is rated for 6 volts and 0.7 watts. If you look in the Game Boy Owner's Manual, (p.12) you will see that this is not the maximum power consumption for the device, just the approximate usage.

No cut traces! I will guide you through the steps required in cleanly de-soldering the FFC connector pins leaving the DMG unscathed.

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Pins 15 and 16 on the FFC connector are the data lines from the CPU to the LCD, which we're going to proxy through the bi-vert chip.

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Be warned: Please remove all batteries before continuing. It's also advised to do this outside of the DMG shell to avoid any accidental slip and melts.

The materials used in this instructable are relatively available online and easily substituted. I predominately use MG Chemicals products as their manufacturing and packaging facility is local. It is important to support your local businesses and I strive to support my local hobby, electronic, and surplus suppliers. My favourites are: A-1 Electronic Parts, Component Electronics, Sayal Electronics, and AA Electronics. For those products I can't source locally I use online distributors — for electrical components they're DigiKey or Mouser and for supplies they're Amazon, eBay, and AliExpress to name a few...

The solder station used is a Hakko FM-202 with a FM-2021 iron and T7-D12/D16 tip. It may be on the high end for a once in awhile mod but I'd recommend to keep an eye out for an equally mid to high end station from your local and online surplus or government auctions such as: and (US/Canada), (My local place), etc. As an intermediate I'd recommend a Yihua 936 which is a sub $20 Hakko 936 look-a-like if you don't want to jump into a Hakko FX-888D.

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The first step is to remove the back cover of the DMG. There are six screws, and depending on when your Gameboy was made, they are either going to be triwing or phillips. Triwing screws, for those of you unfamiliar, are Nintendo’s favorite way to make opening their products just ever so slightly more irritating. If you don’t want to spend a couple dollars on a triwing driver, you can do what I did and use a small flathead in one of the three slots in the screws. It’s not super difficult, but you definitely want to be careful to avoid stripping the screws. There’s four obvious ones on the back of the Gameboy, and two inside the battery compartment. You’ll need to remove all of these.
Once you take those screws out, don’t pull the Gameboy apart quickly. There’s a fairly short ribbon connector connecting the screen half of the Gameboy to the circuitry half. Carefully hinge unit so the screen half is face down on your desk with the circuitry portion sticking vertically upward. You could disconnect the ribbon cable at this point (it’s a ZIF socket, so the connector just slides out), but I didn’t want to bother having to reconnect it when I was done. You can do this repair quite easily without having to put this connector back in.